the dusty healer

We began the morning with class, discussing the role of epidemiology (the field of medicine concerned with the study of epidemics) in understanding healthcare, especially the importance and use of statistics.  We learned that 98% of child deaths occur in developing countries; however, in wealthy countries, 1.1% of girls die before their 15th birthday, compared to 22% in sub-Saharan Africa.  Epidemiology is an extremely useful tool in assessing disease burden and very helpful in recognizing changes in disease patterns.  We also discussed morbidity and mortality, with Dr. Thuma continuing to pepper his lectures with stories from his work in Zambia.  He told us today that he has never treated a Zambian with a heart attack, perhaps mostly attributed to their healthier diet and daily exercise, with many people walking several miles to work each day.

At lunch, we were privileged to sample the local beverage of choice – ibbwatu – a slightly sour drink with chunks of corn meal served in every traditional Zambian home.  (It’s the first drink we’ve ever had to chew!)  In the picture to the above right, Sarah samples her first bit of ibbwatu!  While it seemed to be an acquired taste for most of us, it was good to have a sample prior to being offered some during our home stays this weekend!

After lunch, we set off in two trucks (with seven of us piled in the back bed of each – fear not, parents, it’s not illegal here in Africa!) to drive through the bush to visit a traditional healer in one of the surrounding villages.  Everyone we passed waved hello, some in what is quickly becoming my favorite wave – the two-armed, two-handed, near-full-body wave, where the person doing the waving looks as if nothing in the world is more important at that moment than enthusiastically greeting you with both hands outstretched above their head, hands waving and arms swaying.  After another bumpy, extremely dusty ride, we arrived at the healer’s village and were immediately surrounded and greeted by him and his family.  There were children of all ages running around, dogs wandering in and out of sight, roosters strutting about, and mothers nursing their children.

We were invited to sit down and listen to the traditional healer tell of how the spirits teach him how to treat people in his dreams.  We heard him sing the praises of the Macha Mission Hospital and Dr. Thuma, while at the same time repeatedly requesting that the hospital send more referrals his way!  He then showed us the tools of his trade – old, used plastic water bottles filled with different types of ground herbs, oils and liquids, a tortoise shell, an old plastic phone, which he demonstrated using to call and consult the spirits.  We were introduced to his apprentice, a young man learning the tricks of the trade.  He also showed us the stone behind his hut where he has people lay over night to cast out spirits and save their lives.

At the end of his talk, we mingled (or, more accurately, were nearly mobbed!) by his family who wanted to have their pictures taken.  Some of us also bought beautifully woven baskets that some of the women in the village had for sale.  Before we knew it, it was time to head back to the MIAM campus, so we loaded back up in the trucks and were on our way, with the young children of the village running after us, waving the double-armed, double-handed goodbye with all their hearts.

After a few short minutes on the road, one of the trucks had a flat tire, which momentarily sidetracked us, but soon we were watching the sun set as we flew down the dirt roads, again greeting everyone we passed, trying not to think too much about the incredible amount of dust those of us in the open back were inhaling!  However, the gorgeous sunset and scenery, in addition to the cool breeze and speed of the vehicle, made for an exhilarating and memorable ride home.  (Though those of us in the back felt like Pig Pen from Peanuts when we arrived back on campus in our very own personal clouds of dust!)

We were joined at dinner by three Dutch graduate students who are doing research at the Macha Hospital for a few months.  Many of us will gather after dinner to watch the “European Superbowl” (the soccer equivalent of the United States event!) in the dorm, as the Dutch students are excited to cheer on their favorite team.

Another full day is done.  Tomorrow brings hospital rounds for some students in the morning, class in the afternoon, and further discussion on the role of traditional healers in the villages in the evening, along with some cultural etiquette lessons as students prepare to go out to their homestays this coming weekend!  It’s nearly impossible to believe we’ve almost been in Africa one week already!  Time certainly does fly when you are having fun and learning a lot in the process!